Bagerhat: The ancient mosque city of Bangladesh

Bagerhat, located in the south-western Bangladesh, is known as the “Ancient Mosque City,” Once home about to 360 mosques, palaces, tombs, memorials, dug tanks, and other historic monuments from the 15th century, the city retains some of these structures.

Tourists can visit them to witness the beginning phases of Bengal Muslim architecture. What makes this site particularly unique is that even the smaller mosques remain “alive”; each continues to serve as a place of worship and is regularly visited by Muslims.

Where the ancient city is located

The city is southeast of Khulna, often the starting point for visitors. While the city’s entrance is busy, much of the surrounding area comprises paddy fields, dense forests, and lush jungles. The heritage site itself is not particularly extensive, but navigating it requires extra time due to the narrow, winding, and occasionally unpaved roads. Nevertheless, the journey is rewarding, offering picturesque view of the village’s serene and rural landscape.

Sixty Dome Mosque

Among the surviving monuments in Bagerhat, the Sixty Dome Mosque (Shait Gambuj Mosque or Saith Gunbad Masjid) is undoubtedly the most impressive. It’s believed that Khan-E-Jahan, a Muslim saint and the founder of this town, built the mosque. He traveled from Delhi to establish a Muslim colony in the region, and was so captivated by the area’s natural beauty that he chose to spend the rest of his life there.

While the mosque is named the “Sixty Domes Mosque,” it actually has 77 domes. If the domes on the towers at each of the four corners are counted, the total number reaches 81.

Not only is the exterior design impressive, but the view of the interior of the mosque is also magnificent. The columns that support the 81 domes are arranged in an orderly manner.

Another notable feature is the number of mihrab – while most mosques typically have one mihrab and three at most, a mosque has one mihrab in most cases and three at most, the Sixty Domes Mosque has ten mihrabs.

In the backyard, there is a huge pond behind the mosque. When I visited, a gentleman was taking a ritual bath surrounded by pink lotus flowers. The scene was incredibly peaceful

 

Singar Mosque

Singar Mosque is located just 200 meters away from the Sixty Dome Mosque. It’s a single-domed mosque made of bricks. Though it’s small and simple, it makes a massive impression because of its big single dome. The east wall features three arched facades, with the mihrab aligned with the central entrance of the east.

Bibi Begni Mosque

Bibi Begni Mosque is another single-domed structure. Similar to Singar Mosque, it has three arched facades, with the middle one being the largest. The wall facing Mecca features three mihrabs.

The mosque has been entirely renovated, and only a few terracotta decorations remain. One of these is in the mihrabs, where the whitish color is caused by the salt contained in the land of this region.

Khan Jahan Ali Mazar

Khan Jahan Ali Mazar is the shrine of Khan Ali. It refers to the tomb complex of Khan Jahan Ali, which includes his tomb, a sarcophagus of Muhammad Tahir, his diwan, a single-domed mosque, and the so-called kitchen. Although the complex appears modern because of the painted walls and buildings, its basic structure follows the style of other mosques in Bagerhat.

Nay Gumbad Mosque

Nay Gumbad Mosque, also known as the Nine Dome Mosque, has nine domes atop the structure. It’s relatively large compared to the other surviving mosques in Bagerhat. The mosque’s thick two-meter walls contribute to its magnificent appearance.

There are three mihrabs on the western wall, with the central mihrab being the being the largest. All three are decorated with terracotta featuring motifs of flowers, creepers, and geometric patterns.

The four pillars, partly made of stone, are designed to support the heavy roof that holds the nine domes. The stones have turned black from the wax of candles, serving as evidence of the mosque’s long-history dating back to the 15th century.

Zinda Peer Mosque

Many of the mosques that have survived in Begarhat are similar to Zinda Peer Mosque (Zinda Pir Mosque). It’s a small, modest mosque with several tombs in its courtyard.

The view of a small mosque and several tombs may seem typical, but once you step inside, you’ll find its feel it’s still well worth the visit. The small space is kept neat, with everything needed for worship thoughfully provided.